Cordillera Blanca - Chinchey and Huantsan

Peru 03

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Base Camp 3 Q. Rurec

Shacsha 5703
NE Ridge ?
S ridge PD+
NW slopes AD
Cashan Este 5723
E Ridge ?
Rurec 5700
SW Face easy ?
SW Buttress ?

Rurec Sur I 5300
W Side F/PD
Rurec Sur II 5320
W Slopes F
Rurec Sur III 5300
W Side ?
Uruashraju 5735
NW Face ?
W Ridge PD

 

Base Camp 4 Q. Rajucolta

Huamashraju 5434
S Slopes F 1d
*W Slopes to SW Ridge 1d “Good easy route”
Quimaraju (Quiso) 5406
E Face ?
SW Side ?
Huantsan Norte 6113
SW Ridge ?
W Face ?
Huantsan 6395
NNW Ridge D+/TD- climbed from Norte
W Face TD ?
Huantsan Oeste 6270
N Face TD- 2d
W Face D 2d
SW Slopes D- 2d
Huantsan Sur 5913
N Ridge D-
W Slopes D-
Rurec 5700
NW Ridge PD
Cashan Este 5723
NE Face PD
E Ridge ?
Cashan Oeste 5701
NE Ridge ? 2d (sounds hard!)

 

Base Camp 5 Q Quilcayhuanca

Churup I (Oeste) 5493
S Face AD 1d
SW Face D+ 1d
Huamanripa(Choqo) 5243
*
N Ridge F 1d “other pleasant scrambles can be constructed in this area”
Jatunmontepuncu (Bayo or Huapi) 5415
*SW Ridge F 1d “excellent…open to anyone with a little determination and worth the effort”
P5340
“Useful one day routes”
NE Face F 1d
SW Face D 1d
P5350
“Useful one day routes”
SW Ridge F 1d
N Face PD 1d
Pucaranra 6147
SE Face AD+ 2d
*SE Ridge AD+ 2d “Recommended as a fine 2 day expedition”
Chinchey 6309
W Ridge AD 2d
Tullparaju Sur (Gallohuaganan) 5456
NNW Ridge PD? 1d “an exercise in glacier crossing”
Chopiraju Central (Andavite) 5513
W Ridge F 1d (better to climb from Chopiraju Oeste)
Chopiraju Oeste (Tururu) 5475
*W Ridge F 1d “excellent”
Cayesh 5721
“The steeple of Cayesh rears forth as if calling climbers to worship”
There are a number of hard routes on this which “bear witness to an even larger number of failures”. All are TD and above.
Milpocraju 5300
*SSW Spur D+? 1d “This obvious and elegant spur”
Maparaju 5326
*SW Ridge F 1d “One of the best easy routes in the range”
San Juan 5843
W Ridge PD 2d
E Arete AD+ 2d
S Ridge D- 2d
NW Ridge AD 2d
Quimarumi 5459
E Ridge F+ 1d “delightful little excursion”

 

Base Camp 6 Q Cojup

Ranrapalca 6162
All routes reported to be worthwhile.
NE Ridge D 2d
*NE Slopes D- 2d “very worthwhile”
*E Ridge TD+ 2d “Good climb recommended”
S Face TD+
Palcaraju (Cuchilla) 6274
N Side D 2d
S Face ?
Jatunmontepuncu (Bayo or Huapi) 5415
SW Ridge F 1d “excellent…open to anyone with a little determination and worth the effort”

Base Camp 7 Q Llaca

Ranrapalca 6162
All routes reported to be worthwhile.
*SW Ridge ? 2d
*SW Face ?
Rima Rima 5203
W Face F 1d
Ocshapalca 5881
South face gullies are being developed in a series of modern sport routes.
S Face ?
S Face (Grassi route) ?
S Face (American) ?
S Face (Swiss/French)
Vallunaraju 5686
N Ridge PD+/AD- 1d
E Side AD- 1d
SE Face ? 1d “delicate mixed face”
SW Slopes PD- 1d (originally done as a ski ascent!)

 

Base Camp 8 Q Ishinca

Urus Este 5420
NW ridge PD-
*SE side PD- 1d “Another of the C Blanca’s standard trekking routes. This popularity is well deserved”
Urus Central 5495
SE side ?
Urus Oeste 5450
SE side ?
Tocllaraju 6032m
NW ridge PD+/AD- 2d Most popular route but “this route sees many failures”
*W Face D- 2d “has a greater success rate”
W Face Direct D 2d
Palcaraju 6274
Not easily accessible from this valley
Ishinca 5530
NE Ridge ? 1d
SW ridge F 1/2d Popular trekking route ("of no particular interest")
*NW slopes PD 1d “better”
Ranrapalca 6162
All routes reported to be worthwhile.
N spur TD
N Face ?
NE Ridge D 2d
*NE Slopes D- 2d “very worthwhile”
W Ridge ? 2d
Ocshapalca 5881
N Ridge PD/AD 2d